The ocean gives, and she takes away..

I just snapped my first board. My lovely, luscious longboard that was the first in my possession of longboards. I’m literally still dripping sea water in the house, that’s how recent this tragedy is.

As you can imagine I’m devastated. I surfaced from this monster wave that decided to rear its head on a ‘supposed 2ft’ day of waves, and I glanced over to my board attached to my leg and I could see the ‘soft stuffing’ that made up it’s insides. A groan echoed through my mind, but I held it in. I paddled back to the beach, managed to get seaweed wrapped around my leash, stuck throughout my hair, but still I held it in. I folded my lovely, luscious longboard in half (at least it’s easier to carry now), and I held it in. I spied a leech of a photographer taking advantage of my devastation, and still no tears spilled…I trudged up the beach, up the stairs, washed my feet, my sandwich board tucked beneath my armpit. Still had gawking photographer man obviously finding this quite entertaining, and just shook my head.

And let me tell you, I did not cry. Until I got through the doors of my house.

And now I’m just mad. I didn’t even catch one wave!!

Sharing the feeling with my fellow surf buds that have lost a board to mother ocean ~ Jade


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